11 Brands Like Calvin Klein to Shop for a Quintessential ‘90s Wardrobe
@tibi
My love for the ‘90s hasn’t been a secret. Aside from it being the decade of my birth, I love it for its fashion (some of my favorite ‘90s runway looks, here), its beauty, and its soulful music. Its importance to today’s mainstream culture has been on the rise over the last two years, but it seems we’ve reached pique ‘90s-fixation with the release of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr.’s FX: Love Story series—a show that, aside from depicting the love story between the two, romanticizes working at a quintessential ‘90s fashion brand, Calvin Klein.
Since then, women have been stepping out on TikTok to reveal what it was like to work at Calvin Klein three decades ago. Was it true that only a certain type of flower was allowed in the office? Did people really have to sweep their desks clean at the end of the day? Details we otherwise would have found outdated and stuffy now have a gleam of glamour to them.
It goes without saying that interest in Calvin Klein, and other brands like CK, is on the rise. But for us to appreciate everything that Klein was in the ‘90s, it’s important to look at what distinguished this brand from others. It wasn’t just another classic Americana brand to be filed under the same category as Ralph Lauren or J.Crew. It created a category of its own, prioritizing the working woman in bustling New York City. It pioneered ‘90s minimalism, greatly paring down the excess from the ‘80s and streamlining silhouettes with crisp, clean lines and smart suits. Really, one of the first to bring androgynous fashion into New York.
I say here “one of” the first, because there are, in fact, other brands similar to Calvin Klein that still live by the same ethos. If you want ‘90s minimalism, then these are the brands to shop.
(Editor’s note: these designers are not all from the ‘90s, but adhere to similar style codes from the decade).
I always joked that Helmut Lang is the Austrian Calvin Klein. A little bit of national pride on my own part (I’m half Austrian), but his high-quality tailoring is very similar to Klein’s.
More national pride, Japanese label Comme Des Garçons (the other half of me is Japanese) takes a more avant-garde approach to fashion, while still adhering to this somewhat androgynous (the label does mean “like the boys”) aesthetic that Calvin Klein is also known for.
My love for Jil Sander knows no limits. Creative Director Simone Bellotti knows how to construct good garments. And while at first glance each coat, skirt, or top may appear simple, a closer look reveals a unique cutout or a precisely calculated drape.
It should come as no surprise that Peter Do makes it on this list, given that Do served as Creative Director at Helmut Lang for a short stint. Here you can find all of your wardrobe essentials, but always with a rebellious cut or stitch.
Your office wardrobe wouldn’t be complete without Theory. Tailored to perfection using high-quality materials, Theory isn’t for the experimental, but for the working woman who understands that classics don’t need to be cut and hemmed in every which way—they’re perfect just as they are.
If Helmut Lang is Austrian Calvin Klein, then Giorgio Armani is Italian CK. Always with a touch of sexiness, Giorgio Armani’s collections are certainly more daring while still offering a polished appearance.
While Loulou de Saison was only founded in 2019, the label is rapidly gaining recognition for its modern, effortless elegance. Each of its pieces feel timeless with a subtle Parisian flair.
Tibi balances contemporary designs, everyday elegance, and utilitarian appeal with ease. There’s always one or two stand-out features in its designs that differentiate it from the masses.
You may recognize Issey Miyake more for his Pleats Please line, but I’m personally drawn to the label’s runway collections (which can be shopped at Bergdorf Goodman).
Sportmax is a sister brand to Max Mara, targeting a slightly younger audience with more experimental cuts and silhouettes. Still, true to its Italian nature, it’s nothing but high-quality, everlasting materials here.
