6 Designers I’d Rather Own Vintage Than New

PC: Celine

I was never someone who enjoyed thrift shopping. I have this bad habit of seeing clothes as trash when there’s too much of it, which is why I’m relentless with my spring cleanings and intentional about the pieces I buy. It wasn’t until I moved to Japan in 2020 that I started to understand the appeal of thrifting—the thrill of finding a discontinued Ralph Lauren sweater or a Jil Sander skirt, Raf Simons era.

At this point, I probably don’t have to tell you that thrift shopping in Japan is a bit of a skewed experience, though. In the story where I listed out all the best Japanese thrift stores in New York City, I talked a little bit about how rigorously Japanese thrift store owners select the garments they stock, resulting in a pleasant shopping experience where everything is, at the bare minimum, washed and clean. That’s why Japan’s vintage scene is so world-renowned, and influencers are going viral with their Tokyo vintage shopping hauls.

Interest in vintage shopping is steadily rising. According to ThredUp’s 2024 Resale Report, the global secondhand apparel market grew 18% from 2022 to 2023 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 12% through 2028.

There’s obviously a lot driving this interest—the less-than-ideal economy, the increase in cost of living, and the skyrocketing prices of designer goods, to name a few. A sustainability-first mindset among consumers is likely another.

But culturally, I also think some people are just in search of an identity. In a world where everyone is oversharing, copying, and following the same trends, they’re hoping to find something a little more personal, something with a story they can identify with. And the hunt—the endless scrolling on The RealReal or visiting different thrift stores is part of the soul-searching experience.

From left: Celine, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Prada

I think I’ve grown a liking for vintage shopping for both reasons: it’s more economical and it comes with a story.

Ultimately, the promise from high-end designers—and the reason their prices are so astronomical—is that they’re made from the finest materials by some of the world’s best craftsmen. The difference between a Max Mara coat and a Zara coat is that the former is built to last, and it’s going to keep you capital W-warm—not just photo-ready.

Designer pieces are supposed to hold up over years of wear—so whether I buy them fresh off the market or many seasons later—shouldn’t really matter (in theory).

But there’s also this growing sentiment that luxury goods aren’t what they used to be. People are returning faulty Prada and Louis Vuitton bags. The overall perception is that prices are climbing, while quality is declining. Although I feel it’s important to state that there’s no real evidence to back this claim up.

Regardless, I think there are definitely brands that were simply “better” (objectively speaking) in the past. Some brands are heritage brands, and their pieces from 10 years ago are just as relevant now. A third category exists: the one where you like a creative director from a specific era—one who likely moved on, along with the 13 other creative directors caught up in last year’s major fashion-house reshuffle.

I can’t quite justify spending a certain amount on a designer when I know I can find pieces from the same house, a few seasons older, for cheaper and better.

That’s not the case for all designers—some truly are better now than they were before, and perhaps that will be my next Substack post: Designers I’d rather own new than vintage (subscribe if you want to read it!).

The 6 Designers I’d Rather Own Vintage Than New:

Prada

I’ll be honest: Prada can swing both ways. I love all the recent collections designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, and I also love ‘90s Prada (who doesn’t). But there’s a weird time between 2000 and 2020 (basically right before Raf joined) that doesn’t really speak to me. I also believe Prada’s ready-to-wear is where the brand really shines—less so in the accessories department. I’m excited to see all the skirts hitting the stores next season, but for now, I’d stick to buying vintage ‘90s Prada.

Ralph Lauren

I have to respect Ralph Lauren as a heritage brand—RL 20 years ago is just as good as RL now. It’s rare to see a brand deliver such consistency in aesthetic and quality, which is why shopping vintage Ralph Lauren still feels so fresh and relevant. If you ever go vintage shopping in Japan, you’ll notice this is probably the number one brand in almost every store. We stan a classic Americana label!

Celine

Few eras of fashion are as iconic as the Phoebe Philo-Celine era. Phoebe helped create the blueprint for quiet luxury during her 10-year stint at Celine, while never shying away from unique and expressive designs. I think of her creations as collectibles—pieces that will likely increase in value given the influence they’ve had on fashion.

Gucci

There’s a lot going on at Gucci right now… too much for me to really tune in, but it does make me a bit sad. The brand was never a stranger to drama, but at least back in the day its designs felt transformative. And while I’m personally not a fan of the signature Gucci colors and patterns, I wouldn’t say no to owning anything from Tom Ford’s Gucci collection.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein rose, then fell, and is rising back up again. Much like Prada, I feel that the brand can go either way—vintage and new. Veronica Leoni is doing a fantastic job reviving the original brand ethos while adding a more modern and feminine spin. But it’s too early to tell how it will translate in-store. For now, whenever I see Calvin Klein at a vintage store, I know I’ve found something special.

Tommy Hilfiger

Much like Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger is a thrift favorite in Japan. My perception here is that the quality used to be better back in the day (again, no actual proof to support this, just an observation). I always think Tommy’s runway shows are exceptional—inspiring, preppy, wonderfully tailored. I’m not a huge fan of wearing color, but TH makes me want to try. And still, when I scroll through its online store, I never find anything I like. However, they’re one of the first brands I grab when I see them at a thrift store.